I could have easily had this desk done a week ago, but had so.many.issues. with my sprayer.
This is what happens to certain people with certain personality traits
who perhaps don't think they need to read manuals on very complex machines.
Before
After
I wasn't sure at first which direction to go with this desk that I picked up at a garage sale.
It was so stately with its' leather inlays, yet it had feminine embellishments and feet.
I decided to go with the finish you see, and hope I chose correctly.
I guess I'll know when it sells or not!
I loved the original hardware, so I only primed, painted black, and poly'd them with spray paint.
The big question for me is always how much distressing do I want,
and once it's painted a solid color, where should I start?
To see the video tutorial on how I distress, it is
here. (I'm sorry about the fact that I couldn't steady the camera very well!)
Disclaimer: This technique is best used to distress small areas, like edges.
Large areas show the areas distressed as lighter than the rest of the paint, even after clear coating.
But, I've never had problems with edges.
I usually start with the details and edges, and highlight those first.
On bigger panels and tabletops, I do edges, both the inside and outside edge if there is one,
trying very hard not to let the solvent bite too much into the surrounding paint. Again, the smaller the areas to distress, the better.
I wanted to bring out the leather in-lays, so I distressed around them.
I should also mention that the thinner the layers of paint, the better.
And - keep the denatured alcohol away from the leather.
Yes, I ruined the black leather by being stupid careless and placed the container right on top of it. The protective paper was still on, but it bit right down to the leather. Rather than panicking,
I marched over to my cabinet for some blue tape, taped the gold off,and sprayed the leather back to black.
Phew. You can't even tell the difference.

It's fun to find what lies in drawers.
Just a few tips:
After using the solvent with the 0000 steel wool, there will be steel wool fibers everywhere.
A tack cloth and a pair of gloves are your friends.
You may have to do this step twice, wiping down with a damp cloth in between.
I always grab a bunch for $0.99 at Sherwin Williams because they are ~ $3 each at the big stores.
Also, you may be wondering why I don't just sand through. Well, for one, I like the result of this so much more than sanding alone. Albeit, I do admit it takes more time.

And two, on more than one occasion, I have sanded the edge of a painted piece,
and it turned into the runaway latex bandit.
Which means I have to do this, and start all over. And that makes me grumpy.
We somehow need to find a way to get it inside to stage it for its' debut on Craig (shudder),
but it is so heavy that Kevin needs two guys over here to help. He usually single handedly schleps furniture where I ask without me even noticing any effort involved. This desk is that heavy.
So, my question to you is, how should I price this piece?
Edited to add: the quality of this desk is excellent, it is 100% solid wood, obviously weighs a TON, plus has a glass cover for the top.
Pricing is always the hardest part, because some things sit and some things go like hotcakes,
and I'm still trying to figure out a rhyme or reason.
Products used:
SW Solo Low VOC in Tricorn black, semi-gloss
See tutorial on distressing
hereTopcoat: Varathane, semi-gloss
Linking to: